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      <h1 class="post-title">瑞典挪威逐光七日记(1)：Stockholm</h1>

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        <span class="post-time"> 2017-02-10 </span>
        <div class="post-category">
            <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E6%B8%B8/"> 旅游 </a>
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          <span class="more-meta"> 约 1498 字 </span>
          <span class="more-meta"> 预计阅读 3 分钟 </span>
        <span id="busuanzi_container_page_pv" class="more-meta"> <span id="busuanzi_value_page_pv"><img src="/img/spinner.svg" alt="spinner.svg"/></span> 次阅读 </span>
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  <h2 class="post-toc-title">文章目录</h2>
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  <ul>
    <li><a href="#序要快就不要讲逻辑">序：要快，就不要讲逻辑</a></li>
    <li><a href="#入境">入境</a></li>
  </ul>
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</div>
    <div class="post-content">
      <div class="admonition info"><p class="admonition-title">点击</p>
<p>（先翻墙）查看<a href="https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1VPcRM0UCYSvrJdjV_kFyojtUCuU&amp;ll=64.93481342886963%2C19.221822024999927&amp;z=3">GoogleMaps可视化游记</a></p>
</div>
<h2 id="序要快就不要讲逻辑">序：要快，就不要讲逻辑</h2>
<p>决定要春节出游时，并没有想好去哪儿。吸取了之前过年跑成都的教训，还是到远点的地方吧，不会哪哪儿都放假，人也少些。想了一圈，鬼使神差地，素来最怕冷的某些干部同志，关键时刻意志不坚、立场动摇，竟想到了北欧。</p>
<p>“咋不干脆上天，去北极呢？”</p>
<p>“室内肯定有暖气啊。你看东北人进屋都穿短袖。”​</p>
<p>也是，想到包邮区的冬天那副湿冷刺骨的惨状，一时难以反驳。</p>
<p>“我们可以去看极光。”</p>
<p>成。决策过程高效迅捷，惊天地泣鬼神。</p>
<p>制定战略容易，分解战术动作就复杂了。因为是自由行，得打印详细行程，订好机票、酒店，再去递交申请。携程有个贴心服务，不用付款，单出预订凭证，打印出来就可用于申请签证。即使申请被驳回，也不至于破大费。厚厚一沓申请材料，并不直接交去领事馆，而是交到四川中路213号的申请中心。申请中心如同各领事馆的收件窗口外包平台，澳洲、欧洲一大堆国家都在那儿，现场彩旗招展人潮涌动，蔚为壮观。</p>
<p>刷了两天机票，发现年初二以后比较便宜，最终决定初三再走。总行程只有9天，很难跑完四个国家，所以最终决定只去瑞典和挪威，主题突出：看极光。事实证明，每多计划一个国家，就差不多要多废掉一天在路上。所以浓缩的安排是最明智的。若要兼顾机动性、深度和广度，除非租车自驾，但几乎免不了雪地行车和赶夜车。我一南方菜鸟司机，就不逞这能了。</p>
<h2 id="入境">入境</h2>
<p>初三一早出门，由虹桥T2取道北京飞往斯德哥尔摩。15个小时路程，飞得天昏地暗，虽然万里无云，但也没心情往窗外闲望。（这是个坏习惯。夜行飞机路过北极圈一带，最好守着舷窗看两眼，有较大概率看到极光。）飞机最终泊在Arlanda机场T5航站楼——编号大得出奇，但实际只是楼多，规模并不特别大。入关窗口只有两个，通关慢慢悠悠的。同行的中国人不知道哪里看来的攻略，对着入境官狂飙英语背诵行程。老太太顶多就是抽查两个意思意思问问，不要太当真嘛。你揣着人民币来的，怎么会撵你走？</p>
<p>入境后第一个要解决的问题，就是交通。Arlanda机场在斯德哥尔摩北四十公里，换作上海的机场巴士也就三五十块钱的事。但这里行情很不一般。到斯德哥尔摩中央车站有三种常见方案：</p>
<ol>
<li>
<p>机场快线 Arlanda Express，单程​260克朗，25分钟左右。可以到官网候优惠票；</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>机场巴士 Flygbuss，119克朗/人，车程45分钟左右；</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>公交 + 通勤火车 Pendeltåg，若买24小时票，120克朗/人，车程75分钟左右。</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>瑞典克朗和人民币的汇率大约是1:0.78。饶是如此，还是嫌贵。​最后折中，选了机场巴士。而接下来几天，果不其然，交通成了我们钱包的第一杀手。</p>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">这就是我要传授给你们的北欧行第一大坑</p>
<p>少年们听好了，​那就是——交通哈贵。去之前多挣点！​</p>
</div>
<p>出机场已是当地下午五点，天已全黑。巴士沿着高速公路向南疾驰。夜色昏沉，暮野四合，有一种无法抗拒的萧瑟感。但给人印象极深的，是沿途的房屋每座都灯火通明。这些房屋或是办公楼，或是民居，但都有着周正厚实的方壳，和面积占比极大的大窗，而这些大窗内外，无一例外都亮满米黄色的灯。这些灯让整座厚重的房子都显得通透可爱起来。北欧冬夜漫漫，可能就得靠这些灯才能抑制过高的褪黑素，不至于太抑郁。​​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0210/001ZzLsRzy78ETP5dDddb.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图: Arlanda机场航站楼夜景</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>第一天下榻在中央车站对面的 Hotel Terminus。电梯特别小，刚好容下两人。古旧的铺着绯红地毯的旋转楼梯包绕在古旧的电梯筒道外面，让人想起伯格曼。但伯格曼周在夏天，法罗岛也太远。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0210/001ZzLsRzy78ETQn4Qe5e.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图: Hotel Terminus</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">提示</p>
<p>1.瑞典酒店秉承德国优良传统，不提供牙刷、牙膏、拖鞋；
2.不少酒店连旅行电源转换器都不提供，所以去之前买若干个万用转接头是正经</p>
</div>
<p>[待续]</p>
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